Datong · practical guide

Datong in Two Days: Temples, Grottoes and the Old City by Car

A two-day drive from Datong: Liao-Jin temples inside the Ming wall, the Yungang caves, Yingxian's wooden pagoda and the Hanging Monastery, with notes on timing, tickets and reconstruction.

Field noteDatong
Seated Buddha statue at Yungang Grottoes near Datong
Seated Buddha statue at Yungang Grottoes near Datong

Datong's reputation is industrial, so the density of old monuments inside and around it comes as a surprise. The Northern Wei made Pingcheng their capital in 398; under the Liao and Jin the city served as a western capital. Buddhist patronage left temples, cave sanctuaries and timber halls that reward a focused visit more than a checklist.

Two days covers an introduction, not a survey. A car makes the southern sites practical, at the cost of parking and holiday traffic. Check opening days, reservations and shuttle arrangements with official sources in the week before you travel.

Splitting Two Days

Keep day one inside the old city. Use day two for Yungang, then drive south to Yingxian and the Hanging Monastery. That second day is ambitious; drivers who want a slower pace should pick one of the two southern sites and be back in Datong before dark.

With a single full day, stay in the city: Huayan Temple in the morning, Yungang after lunch, the wall or the Drum Tower in the evening. With two, the order can be flipped — city temples and Yungang first, Yingxian, the Hanging Monastery and Hengshan second.

Day 1: Old City and Huayan Temple

Start inside the city wall. Huayan is the most rewarding stop; Shanhua Temple nearby is a reasonable addition if time allows. Reconstructed streets and surviving monuments sit close together in the old grid.

Hall at Huayan Temple

Huayan Temple

Founded in 1038 under the Liao and rebuilt in 1140 after Jin war damage, Huayan is among the most complete Liao-Jin complexes in China. The Ming split it into upper and lower temples; a fire in 1648 left only the main hall and the Bhikkhu Teachings Hall standing. The bell and drum towers, the entrance range and several side halls were rebuilt on the original site in the early 2000s.

Beyond the gate, Puguang Ming Hall is flanked by halls to the Medicine Buddha and Amitabha, designed from Liang Sicheng's drawings of the lost Haihui Hall. The mural wrapping the hall shows Sudhana's fifty-three visits to teachers, a Buddhist narrative of gradual instruction rather than sudden insight.

Mural at Huayan Temple

The Main Hall

The main hall sits on a five-metre platform, first built in 1062, destroyed in 1122 and rebuilt to the same footprint in 1140. It is the largest surviving ancient wooden religious building in China. Twenty Ming celestial guardians line the walls, with Qing murals behind them; hence the much-quoted sequence of Liao temple, Jin building, Ming sculpture, Qing painting.

Look up at the ridge. The pair of glazed chiwen measure 4.5 metres, among the largest of their kind in early Chinese architecture.

Bell tower at Huayan Temple

Pagoda and Underground Palace

The 43.5-metre Huayan Pagoda is square, timber-framed, with five visible levels and two concealed ones. After Yingxian it is the second-largest surviving pure mortise-and-tenon wooden pagoda in China. Its lower level holds a copper-clad underground palace with a relic chamber and thousands of small Buddha figures. The stairs are steep and access is controlled, so queues move slowly. Anyone uneasy in confined spaces can admire the pagoda from the courtyard instead.

Huayan Pagoda

Copper statues in the underground palace

Square, Wall, Evening Walk

Huayan Square is a modern commercial development in imitation Liao-Jin style. It is not ancient, but the lighting makes a useful orientation point after dark. From there, walk or drive to the wall. The Ming circuit, built in 1372 on the earthen base of the Yuan city, runs about 7.2 kilometres and has been heavily restored. Entry may require a reservation, and the brickwork reads better in daylight than under the decorative lamps.

Huayan Square at night

The Drum Tower, the Four Archways and the Nine-Dragon Screen make a compact evening walk. The screen dates to 1392 and is one of three surviving examples of its type in China. The Drum Tower itself is Ming, repaired several times since; the streets around it are loud with restaurants and traffic.

Drum Tower in Datong

Entrance to the Grand Mosque in Datong

Day 2: Yungang, Yingxian and the Hanging Monastery

Leave early for Yungang, about 16 kilometres west of the city. The site is well organised, with a large visitor centre and car parks, though holiday volumes still slow the approach. Reserve tickets through official channels and follow current rules on photography inside the painted caves.

Yungang Grottoes visitor area

Yungang Grottoes

Yungang was cut into the sandstone of Wuzhou Mountain between the fifth and sixth centuries. The complex holds 45 major caves, more than 200 subsidiary ones and some 59,000 figures, from thumb-sized carvings to a Buddha 17 metres high. The monk Tan Yao directed the first imperial cave group, and the site remains the clearest surviving expression of Northern Wei royal Buddhist patronage. It joined the UNESCO World Heritage list in 2001.

The approach passes a statue of Tan Yao and a modern reconstruction of Lingyan Temple on an island in the lake, built to a description in Li Daoyuan's sixth-century Commentary on the Water Classic. It is an introduction, not an ancient survival. The caves are the reason to come.

Lingyan Temple at Yungang

Which Caves to Prioritise

Caves 1 and 2 are central-pillar caves, their lower figures worn by water and time. Cave 3, the largest excavation at the site, was left unfinished when Emperor Xiaowen moved the capital to Luoyang; its three Tang-era figures are later additions. Cave 5 contains a seated Buddha about 17 metres high. Cave 6 is known for its carved narrative panels.

The Tanyao caves, numbered 16 to 20, were carved between 460 and 465 and represent the first phase of the site. Each centres on a large Buddha associated with a Northern Wei emperor. Cave 20, open to the sky, is the best-known image at Yungang and the second-largest Buddha here.

Cave openings at Yungang

Buddha statues in a Yungang cave

Large Buddha at Yungang

Yingxian Wooden Pagoda

From Yungang the drive to Yingxian is about 87 kilometres, two hours in traffic. The Sakyamuni Pagoda at Fogong Temple was built in 1056 and stands 67.3 metres high, the oldest and tallest surviving wooden pagoda in China. Its frame has come through earthquakes, war damage and centuries of weather, and the structure now leans noticeably; conservation proposals have been debated for years without a settled solution.

Fire is the great risk for a building of this kind, so lighters are checked at the gate. The main hall behind the pagoda was rebuilt in the Qing period after earlier fires. The pagoda itself is the reason to stop, and its dense brackets and layered eaves are best taken slowly from the courtyard.

Yingxian Wooden Pagoda

Wooden pagoda seen from Fogong Temple

Gate at Fogong Temple

Hanging Monastery

The Hanging Monastery lies about 57 kilometres from Yingxian, on the Cuiping Peak cliff in Hengshan. Founded in 491, it packs Buddhist, Daoist and Confucian halls into a vertical arrangement of walkways and shrines; most of what stands today is Ming and Qing repair. Access to the upper walkways is limited and the climb may close when crowds are heavy, so confirm before committing to the detour.

Hanging Monastery on the cliff

Hengshan is nearby, with cable car and walking options, but adding it to the same day makes a long drive longer. Drones are prohibited at the Hanging Monastery, and similar rules are spreading at heritage sites.

Driving and Conservation Notes

Distances on paper are modest; holiday traffic, parking queues and the old city's pedestrian zones eat the time. Keep the car for the Yungang and Yingxian legs and walk inside the walled city where you can. Confirm road access, parking and site reservations locally, since arrangements change.

Datong's old city has been extensively rebuilt since the early 2000s. Infrastructure improved and visitors came, but the work has raised hard questions about authenticity, demolition and the relationship between new commercial streets and surviving monuments. A traveller can respond simply: spend your time with the original buildings, read the site notices, respect photography and incense rules, and treat the reconstructed streets as contemporary urban design rather than ancient fabric.

City wall at night

City gate in Datong at night

How this guide was made

This guide combines structured research and automation with source and duplication review. Dates change; verify time-sensitive details before travelling.

About the author

China Wayfarer editors

China-based travel researchers focused on practical, independently useful advice.

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